Chengdu is the capital
of Sichuan Province, China's second most populous with
over 90 million people. There are 15 ethnic groups in
Sichuan and it is common to see Tibetans, Uigurs, Miao,
and Yao. Although Chengdu's population is only about
two million, it is all a question of where one draws
the city lines, and to get a sense of the city a better
figure is its population density, which is nine times
greater than
New York's. There is something for everyone in this city
Marco Polo called China's Paris, and expatriates and
travelers will find both traditional and modern China.
Like all Chinese cities, Chengdu is a place of contrasts.BMWs
share roads with roosters and a tourist can get a good
cup of coffee and the International Herald Tribune
or can feast on boiled blood and fish head. But Western
culture has not made such inroads here as it has in
Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, and Chengdu's appeal
is that there are not McDonald's franchises on every
corner, bicycles are still the overwhelming mode of
transportation, and most Chengdu residents would still
rather eat brain.
Chengdu, once the head of the Southern Silk Road,
is famous for its silks. Other Sichuan specialties
include lacquerware, silverwork, and bamboo products.
Chunxi Road, in the heart of the city, is the main
shopping street, though there are stores everywhere.
Chengdu swarms with life. There are teahouses full
of earpickers and songbirds; department stores selling
the newest international fashions; Buddhist and Taoist
temples full of heavy incense and chanting monks; vendors
hawking everything from pirated software to chicken
feet; and everywhere, people. Life happens on the streets,
in the markets and alleyways, restaurants and roadside
shops and in Chengdu old and new China get along in
splendid harmony.
Maybe living on top of one another makes people merry,
for the Sichuanese love to play and will often spend
entire afternoons at nothing more productive then games
of mahjong and endless cups of jasmine tea. They are
proud of their way of life and, while some of their
eastern cousins might call them lazy, the Sichuanese
will always tell you, with a smile, that they have
more fun. As one whiles away afternoons at teahouses
and evenings at hotpot restaurants, it's easy to believe
them. There is not the same competitive drive or acuteness
of time here that one finds in the coastal cities,
and while Chengdu is neither as modern or international
as Beijing or Shanghai, it is possible for a tourist
or expatriate to find all the comforts of home without
being awash in them.
The isolation of Sichuan Province in the eighth century
prompted Chinese poet Li Bai to famously proclaim, "It
is more difficult to go to Sichuan than to get into
heaven." While that's not true anymore, there
is still enough "old China" in Chengdu
to remind one that most of the Middle Kingdom is not
discotheques and department stores, mobile phones and
American movies but a culture at the tail-end of 5000
years of its own unique history. Undoubtedly Chengdu
and the rest of China will change quickly, but for
now, the city retains many older traditions and a distinct
culture. Among the throwbacks to its rich past, Sichuan's
most obvious are its teahouses, but there are also
many parks, active temples, opera houses, and well-preserved
historic sites.
Teahouses are everywhere here and are a focal point
of Sichuan culture. French cafes with time to spare,
they have a long history as places locals gather to
discuss everything from dowries to politics. Locals
don't argue dowries anymore, but many still talk politics
and a visitor might suddenly find himself discussing
the merits of the World Trade Organization or the significance
of the quickly shrinking world. Teahouses are restive
places, where retired men hang birdcages and no one
ever hurries in for a quick caffeine pick-me-up.
Chengdu was the first of China's 30 provincial capitals
to be awarded the title, "sanitary city," and
it is a green city, as Chinese cities go. It is located
on the flat Chengdu Plain, but 40 kilometers to its
west wild and largely uninhabited mountains rise steeply
towards the Tibetan plateau. Among many local sites
are the world's largest panda reserve, the world's
tallest Buddha statue, and one of China's four holy
Buddhist Mountains. Whatever one's interests, there
is always plenty to do.
Sichuanese cuisine is arguably the best in China
and if food is your passion, you will truly be in the
proverbial tianfu zhi guo, 'the land of plenty.' Don't
be fooled by Sichuanese food outside of Sichuan, it
is a pale comparison to the spicy fare to be had here.
The names of Sichuanese dishes are almost as interesting
as the foods themselves, and there are such entrees
as Pockmarked Grandmother's Bean Curd, Imperial Chicken,
and Ants Climbing the Tree. Hotpot, a bowl of boiling
oil and red pepper in which most anything can be cooked
at your table, is a popular newcomer and, like teahouses,
is an important part of Chengdu social life. Provided
that one can get used to the hot red pepper and the
numbing Chinese Prickly Ash used in Sichuanese cooking,
they will eat well and cheaply. And if a person craves
pizza, a hamburger, or even Japanese or Indian cuisine,
there are authentic restaurants. |