Chongqing Municipality,
334km (208 miles) SE of Chengdu, 1,346km (836 miles)
S of Xi'an, 1,000km (620 miles) upstream of Three Gorges
Dam If other major cities in China are undergoing face-lifts,
Chongqing is having radical reconstructive surgery:
In 1997, it became the fourth city to achieve the status
of municipality (after Beijing, Tianjin, and Shanghai).
With summers so hot it's been dubbed one of China's
Three Furnaces, and streets so steep that no one rides
a bike, terrain and weather were once its chief claims
to fame. Now, this cliffside city overlooking the confluence
of the Chang and Jialíng rivers has much to boast about.
Chongqing is the biggest metropolitan area in the world
(surpassing Tokyo); it's got the world's biggest dam
site downriver; it's in the midst of building the world's
tallest skyscraper (the Chongqing Tower); and a 17-station
monorail system will be up and running in 2005 (not
a record breaker, but no mean feat). But whether all
this development is a boom or a binge is yet to be
seen.
As recently as the 19th century, Chongqing was
a remote walled city. Even after the steam engine
eased passage through the Three Gorges, few easterners
had any reason or desire to make the trip. That all
changed in 1938, when Hankou fell to the Japanese
and downriver residents made a mass exodus up the
Cháng Jiang (Yangzi River). Chongqing became China's
last wartime capital, and after withstanding 3 years
of Japanese bombing, the city never looked back.
Very few of the old ramshackle neighborhoods rebuilt
after the war have survived "urban improvement," and
except for an old prison complex and a few small
museums and memorials there is little evidence of
earlier eras.
Most travelers come to Chongqing because it's the
first or last stop on a Three Gorges cruise. But until
recently, levels of sulfur dioxide and suspended air
particles were so high that visitors couldn't wait
to leave. As the city implements pollution control
programs, that seems to be gradually changing. Chngqing's
pleasures are modest, but there's enough here to make
a 2- or 3-day stay enjoyable. The city is also just
a 2-hour bus ride from the Buddhist Grottoes at Dazu. |