Sericulture (the culture
of the silkworm) and the weaving of silk have been
practiced in China from a remote period. Legend dates
this back to 2640 B.C., to Empress Si Ling-chi, who
not only encouraged the culture of the silkworm but
also developed the process of reeling from the cocoon.
This was a closely guarded secret for some 3,000 years.
Silk seems to have been woven very early on the island
of Kós, which Aristotle mentions, in a vague description
of the silkworm, as the place where silk was “first
spun,” In the 1st and 2d cent. A.D. silk fabrics imported
to Greece and Rome were sold for fabulous prices.
Up to the 6th cent. raw silk was brought from China,
but death was the penalty for exporting silkworm
eggs. About A.D. 550 two former missionaries to China,
incited by Emperor Justinian, succeeded (says Procopius)
in smuggling to Constantinople, in a hollow staff,
both the eggs of the silkworm and the seeds of the
mulberry tree. Byzantium became famous for splendid
silken textiles and embroideries, used throughout
medieval Europe for royal and ecclesiastical costumes
and furnishings. In the 8th cent. the Moors began
to carry the arts of silk culture and weaving across
the northern coast of Africa and to Spain and Sicily,
and in the 12th cent. Spain and Sicily were weaving
silks of exquisite texture and design.
Other areas of Europe subsequently became great weaving
centers. Lucca, in N Italy, had established looms by
the 13th cent., and in the 14th cent. the city became
famous for its materials and designs. Florence and
Venice followed and wove sumptuous fabrics and velvets
enriched with gold thread. Genoa's velvets became well
known. France established looms, and under Louis XIV's
minister Jean Baptiste Colbert it set the fashion with
its beautiful silks. Lyons in S France became an important
weaving center. Early attempts were made in England
under Henry VI to establish the silk industry, but
it was not until the revocation of the Edict of Nantes,
when many French refugee weavers fled to England, that
the industry received a real impetus. The French settled
in Canterbury, Norwich, and other places; but it was
in Spitalfields, London, that the industry became important.
Many attempts were made to establish sericulture
in the American colonies: inducements such as land
grants and bounties were offered, and many mulberry
trees were planted. In 1759 Georgia sold more than
10,000 lb (4,535 kg) of cocoons in London. Pennsylvania
had a silk industry, fostered by Benjamin Franklin,
until the Revolution. The high cost of labor seems
to have been the main deterrent to the success of sericulture
in America. |