Lhasa is the
religious and political heart of the Tibetan world,
Lhasa sits on the north bank of the Kyi Chu, surrounded
by colossal mountain ranges to the north and south.
The first hint that you are entering the traditional
capital of Tibet is the red and white palaces of the
Potala, home to Tibet's spiritual and temporal leaders,
the Dalai Lamas, since the 17th century. Most Western
visitors, however, are disillusioned to find a Chinese
city. The Dalai Lama, the other enduring symbol of
Tibetan purity and mystery, fled the grounds of his
summer residence, the Norbulingka, more
than 40 years ago.
Nowhere is the grip of Chinese rule tighter. The
effects of martial law, declared in March 1989, are
still felt in Lhasa, particularly in the nearby Geluk
monasteries of Drepung and Sera. Hú Yàobang, general
secretary of the CCP during the early 1980s, compared
Chinese policies and attitudes in Tibet to colonialism,
and this feeling is still hard to shake. Since the
1980s, waves of Hàn migration from poor neighboring
provinces have made Tibetans a minority in their
own capital. Ironically, Hú Yàobang's policy of opening
Tibet to migration and trade led to this influx of
Hàn migrants, which most Tibetans consider the most
odious aspect of Chinese rule.
All Tibetan Buddhists aim to visit Lhasa at least
once in their lives, drawn by the sacred Jokhang Temple,
which forms the heart of the Tibetan quarter. It is
recommended that you spend most of your time exploring
this captivating neighborhood, also known as the Barkhor
District. |