No city in the world
is more distant from the sea than Urumqi, which lies
2249km (1,397 miles) away from the nearest ocean. The
city's name means "beautiful pastures" in
Mongolian, but urumqi, capital of the Xinjiang Uighur
Autonormous Region, is a modern industrial metropolis
with a population of 1.5 million, and all its beautiful
meadows lie well outside the city limits. Urumqi
is the most Chinese of the Silk Read cities.Nearly
80% of its residents are Hen Chinese, recent "economic
immigrants" who were induced to move west, attracted
by the higher wages and better opportunities available
on the frontier. However, the Uighur, the nomadic Kazakhs,
and other minorities dominate the surrounding lands.
Muslim rebels have ruled the city at times, both before
and after Urumqi was declared the capital of China's
New Territories in 1884. At the beginning of the 20th
century, the city maintained separate Muslim, Chinese,
and Russian quarters. The influence of the three groups
remains strong today, but the Han Chinese are firmly
in control of Urumqi's administration and factories.
The overriding truth about Urumqi,however, is that
it is an ugly industrial monster set in one of the
least appealing spots on the Silk Road--little more
than a slag heap on which to heap more slag. On the
other hand, the new Chinese workers and investors
are planting greenways and replacing slums, making
Urumqi the most modern city on the old Silk Road,
a new crossroads for traders from China, Russia,
and central Asia. Far travelers, the chief attraction
of Urumqi is not trade or industry, of course, but
the "beautiful pastures" hinted at in Urumqi's
name, and those places are within reach. In the southern
pastures of the Heavenly Mountains and at Heavenly
Lake, where the Kazakhs roam on horseback, the alpine
beauty of the Silk Road is at its grandest. |