People immediately
think of Sichuan food as being hot, sour, sweet, and
salty; using fish sauce; or having a strange taste.
Actually, these flavors were introduced only in the
last 100 years, and initially were popular only in
the lower strata of society. Hot pepper, an important
flavoring in Sichuan cuisine, was introduced into China
only 200 to 300 years ago.
During the period of the
Three Kingdoms, the kingdom of Shu was located in Sichuan.
According to historical research, the people in Shu
liked sweet food. During the Jin Dynasty, they preferred
to eat pungent food; however, pungent food at that
time referred to food made with ginger, mustard, chives,
or onions. As recently as 200 years ago, there were
no hot dishes in Sichuan cuisine, and few were cooked
with pungent and hot flavorings. Originally, its flavorings
were very mild, unlike the popular dishes of today,
such as pockmarked lady’s bean curd and other hot dishes,
Even today, some Sichuan dishes, like velvet shark’s
fin, braised bear’s paw, crisp duck roasted with camphor
and tea, sea cucumber with pungent flavor, minced chicken
with hollyhock, boiled pork with mashed garlic, dry
– fried carp, and boiled Chinese cabbage have kept
their traditional flavors.
Sichuan has been known as
the land of plenty since ancient times. While it does
not have seafood, it produces abundant domestic animals,
poultry, and freshwater fish and crayfish. Sichuan
cuisine is well known for cooking fish. As a unique
style of food, Sichuan cuisine was already famous more
than 800 years ago during the Southern Song Dynasty
when Sichuan restaurants were opened in Lin’an, now
called Hangzhou, its capital city.
The prevailing Sichuan
food consists of popular dishes eaten by common people
and characterized by pungent, hot, strange, and salty
flavors. Although Sichuan cuisine has only a short
history, it has affected and even replaced more sumptuous
dishes.
The hot pepper was introduced into China from
South America around the end of the 17th century. Once
it came to Sichuan, it became a favored food flavoring.
Sichuan has high humidity and many rainy or overcast
days. Hot pepper helps reduce internal dampness, so
hot pepper was used frequently in dishes, and hot dishes
became the norm in Sichuan cuisine. Sichuan food has
become the common food for most people in the area,
especially since the dishes go well with rice. In this
respect, Sichuan cuisine differs from Beijing cuisine,
which was mainly for officials and nobility; Huai –
Yang cuisine, which was mainly for rich, important
traders; and Jiangsu – Zhejiang cuisine, which was
mainly for literati. Typical, modern Sichuan dishes
like twice – cooked pork with chili sauce, shredded
pork with chili sauce and fish flavor, Crucian carp
with thick broad – bean sauce, and boiled mat slices
are common dishes eaten by every family.
Sichuan food
is famous for its many flavors, and almost every dish
has its own unique taste. This is because many flavorings
and seasonings are produced in Sichuan Province. These
include soy sauce from Zhongba, cooking vinegar from
baoning, special vinegar from Sanhui, fermented soy
beans from Tongchuan, hot pickled mustard tubers from
Fuling, chili sauce from Chongqing, thick, broad –
bean sauce from Pixian, and well salt from Zigong.
Sichuan pickles have an appealing smell, and are crisp,
tender, salty, sour, hot, and sweet. If pickled elsewhere,
even if made the same way using the same raw materials,
they still would taste different. This is because the
salt, which comes from wells in Zigong, has a unique
flavor. In other places, sea salt is often used, which
tastes slightly bitter. This example demonstrates that
the flavoring materials are very important, apart from
the skill of the cooks. In Sichuan food, a single flavor
is rarely used, compound flavors are most common. By
blending different seasonings, skilled cooks can make
dozens of different sauces each with its own flavor,
including creamy, salty, sweet and sour, litchi, sour
with chili, hot with chili, spicy and hot, mashed garlic,
distiller’s grain, fish sauce with chili, ginger juice,
and soy sauce. The same sauce may be used differently
in different dishes. For example, the flavor of the
hot with chile sauce for boiled sliced pork is different
from the flavor of the hot with chile sauce for pockmarked
lady’s bean curd.
When flavoring foods, sometimes two
or more flavorings are combined, and sometimes a hot
fire is used to concentrate the extract from the dish
to increase the intensity of the flavor, preserve the
primary taste of the dish, remove unpleasant flavors,
and increase pleasant flavors. Sichuan cuisine tends
to use quick – frying, quick stir – frying, dry – braising,
and dry – stewing. In quick – frying and quick stir
– frying, the food is fried over a hot fire and stirred
quickly without using another pan. For example, it
takes about one minute to stir – fry liver and kidney
to keep it tender, soft, delicious, and fresh.
The
raw materials for dry – braising are mostly fibrous
foods like beef, radish, balsam, and kidney beans.
These foods are cut into slivers, heated in an iron
pot and stirred continuously. Flavorings are added
when there is only oil left and the water has disappeared.
When the dish is ready, it is dry, fragrant, crisp,
and soft.
Dry – stewing is similar to stewing in the
Beijing cuisine, but the primary soup or extract in
the dish must be condensed over a low fire before the
thick broad – bean sauce or hot red pepper is added.
No starch is used. When the dish is ready, it looks
faddish, oily, and shiny and tastes delicious, crisp
and soft. Typical dishes are dry – stewed fish and
dry – stewed bamboo shoots.
Sichuan cuisine also has
many delicious snacks and desserts, such as Bangbang
chicken, chicken with sesame paste, lantern shadow
beef, husband and wife’s pork lung slices, steamed
beef, noodles with chili sauce, and rice dumplings
stuffed with sesame paste.
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