As early as the Spring
and Autumn Period, more than 3,000 years ago, Shandong
was territory of Qi and Lu. Both states were economically
and culturally developed. Because they bordered the sea,
and had mountains and fertile plains, they had abundant
aquatic products and grains as well as sea salt. The people
of the area have stressed seasonings and flavorings since
ancient times.
Shandong cuisine was created during the
Yuan Dynasty. It gradually spread to north China, Beijing,
Tianjin, northeast China, and the palace where it influenced
the imperial food. The Shandong cuisine comprises mainly
eastern Shandong and Jinan dishes.
The most typical Jinan
dishes are sea cucumber with mat balls; braised shark’s
fin with shredded chicken; sea cucumber, mushroom, and
bamboo shoots; clam in egg white; and fried oysters. Jinan
cuisine is known for its soups, quick – frying, stir –
frying, deep – frying, and stewing. The most common raw
materials are river fish, pork, and vegetables. Some typical
dishes are carp in milk soup, Yellow River carp in sweet
and sour sauce, stewed pork leg, and quick – fried double
crisps.
Shandong cuisine is characterized by quick – frying,
stir- frying, braising, and deep – fat frying. Its dishes
are crisp, tender, delicious, and greasy with salty and
some sweet and sour flavors. Its main condiment is salt,
but it also uses salted fermented soybeans and soy sauce.
People in Shandong like to eat onions and use onions as
a seasoning. The dishes include braised sea cucumber with
onion, cartilage stewed with onions, and meat stewed with
onions. Roast meats are also served with onions. The onions
are first deep – fat fried before the dishes are quick
– fried, stir – fried, stewed, or sauted so they absorb
the onion flavor. People in Shandong also like foods made
of wheat flour, such as steamed buns, baked buns, pancakes,
crisp cakes, and big cakes stuffed with minced meats.
Huai-Yang
Cuisine. This cuisine includes dishes from Huai’an, Yangzhou,
Suzhou, Hangzhou, and Shanghai. Huai-Yang refers to the
cities of Yangzhou, Zhenjiang, and Huai’an in Jiangsu Province
along the Grand Canal north of the Yangtze River. Yangzhou
was a military fort and a cultural center in ancient times.
It was a very busy city as early as the Tang Dynasty, and
was the most flourishing commercial city in China after
the capital city. Extravagant consumption by rich, important
businessmen stimulated the thriving catering trade and
the development of cookery.
Every important salt trader
employed a skilled cook who specialized in cooking certain
delicious dishes or desserts. When a salt trader gave a
dinner, he often borrowed cooks from other salt traders,
and when every cook prepared his specialty, a lavish dinner
was ready. In this way, the cooks exchanged their cooking
skills and improved the cooking in Yangzhou. Yangzhou,
located in a region crisscrossed by rivers and lakes, has
abundant fish, shrimp, and seafood, which are used in the
local cooking, The city’s catering trade flourished during
the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. There were also cooks
who sold their cooking skills as “external cooks” at festivals,
banquets, and weddings. Their different services were evidence
of the fierce competition among them, which helped develop
the cooking skills in Yangzhou.
If Shandong cuisine is
characterized by stirring and frying over a hot fire, Huai-Yang
cuisine is characterized by stewing, braising, and steaming
over a low fire for a long time. Famous dishes cooked this
way are chicken braised with chestnuts, pork steamed in
lotus leaf, duck stewed with eight treasures, pork meat
balls Yangzhou style, and butterfly sea cucumber (sea cucumber
cut into butterfly shapes and cooked with flavorings).
Yangzhou dishes stress the stock and extract, and require
chicken to taste like chicken and fish to taste like fish,
with clear distinctions between the primary and secondary
ingredients. The dishes are cooked over a low fire and
the pots are covered or sealed so the marrow cooks out
and the primary taste and form are kept. These traits stock
fresh and delicious (this is the main difference between
stewing and braising). Stewed dishes are tender, fragrant,
and tasty.
Stewing without water in the pot is one stewing
method. It is done this way: Put the cleaned meat (preferably
a whole chicken or duck) in a sealed vessel and immerse
the vessel in boiling water for several hours. Boiling
food in its own juice without soy sauce was begun in the
Yangzhou cuisine and has since influenced the Beijing cuisine.
Yangzhou dishes, which are slightly sweet, are often flavored
with both sugar and salt. Sugar makes the dish more delicious
and tasty. The Yangzhou cuisine also stresses colors, such
as the colors of red sugar, soy sauce, the raw materials,
and egg white. Dragon hidden in snow is a good example.
The major ingredient is quick – fried eel shreds. Steamed
egg white is used as the base color, and when the shining,
black – and – yellow, quick – fried, shredded eel is placed
on the white, it looks like a dragon lying on snow. Other
dishes, such as chicken boiled in its own soup without
soy sauce, roast Mandarin fish, steamed hilsa herring,
and steamed shrimp dumplings look sparkling, lustrous and
attractive.
Crystallized dishes made in Zhenjiang are sparkling,
transparent, tender, and delicious. They are known for
their color, form, and taste. Huai-Yang cuisine also pays
attention to color and taste. If a dish is heavy and brightly
colored, its taste must be heavy and its soup must be thick.
If a dish is simple and light colored, its taste must be
light and its soup must be clear.
The vegetarian banquet
is a special feature of the Huai-Yang cuisine, and the
vegetarian dishes in the Beijing cuisine are mostly variants
of the Huai – Yang cuisine. This is not true for the vegetarian
foods of the other cuisines, The Huai-Yang snacks and refreshments
are exquisite, such as boiled, shredded, dried bean curd;
steamed dumplings with minced meat and gravy; steamed meat
dumplings with the dough gathered at eh top; steamed stuffed
meat buns; steamed buns filled with meat, bamboo shoots
and vegetables; Huangqiao baked sesame cakes; multi-layer
cake; boneless fish and noodles; quick- fried eel and noodles;
noodles with seasoned topping; and steamed crystal buns
from Zhenjiang.
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